The Delta Exudes Southern Charm and More Reviews

December 23, 2017

The Delta is an “at times bold, though mostly stick-to-your-ribs craveable” ode to Southern cooking that offers fun twists at every turn according to Maggie Hennessy. The restaurant’s signature tamales serve as a “delightful drinking companion” for the “smashable” smashes — shareable cocktails on ice served in flower vases. Among the rotating tamale options, the “wicked-good, hot effing mess” Jim Shoe is a beef and lamb tamale showered with pastrami, giardiniera, lettuce, sweet peppers, and DAF sauce. Other menu highlights include “velvety” chicken liver pate imbued with Old Bay, and “succulent” whole grilled catfish. To finish, a “bubbly” huckleberry cobbler with vanilla ice cream is a paragon of the form. [Time Out]

 

Beatnik is “another big hit” for restaurateur Daniel Alonso, writes David Zivan. Simply put: “The drinks are terrific; the eclectic menu charms; and, above all, the place is a marvel to look at.” Cocktails such as the Mélange of Modern Culture — green chili vodka, mezcal, celery, lime, and walnut — sound like strange mashups but they “somehow balance beautifully.” They’re paired with dishes like grilled baby sepia with squid-ink masa dumplings, and a “skillful comfort-food execution” of potatoes done three ways. And be sure to bring a group because “having a big good time is the whole idea.” [CS]

 

The Tribune put together a review roundup of several big openings. Beatnik “delights in serving up layers upon layers of style” and “perhaps the restaurant’s greatest achievement is the space it has created.” At Gideon Sweet, every dish is “stunning, thoughtful, and powerfully flavorful”but the portions are “just so tiny.” And Royal Grocer & Co., which strives to be a cut above a regular neighborhood spot, is upended by sloppy execution and “growing pains.” [Tribune]

 

https://chicago.eater.com/2017/12/22/16810434/reviews-the-delta-beatnik-more

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